Archive for the ‘Sous Chef Eric Suniga’ Category

It’s Time to Recognize.

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010

group1

Chef Michael Hanaghan and Sous  Eric Suniga are in the house, and with over fifteen years combined  cooking for Thomas Keller, our kitchen is putting out some truly world class  food.  Over the past month I’ve seen some once in a lifetime dishes, but its the food we serve everyday.  Chef Mike brings some serious experience to the table; his rock-like presence in the kitchen inspires us all to be stronger, to cook better.  With Sous Eric as his right hand and a crew of seasoned cooks, our kitchen hums.  It steams along on a rail of solid technique and utmost respect for ingredients and the craft of cooking.  Heads are down and plates are up, the floor staff literally running to keep up, blurs of black-clad bodies bussing and marking the next course.  The floor buzzes, the servers and guests are busily chatting over butter poached lobster, fine wine and caramelized blue cheese.  This 09 holiday season Ten-01 rocked. Patrons pounced; the place was packed, holiday shoppers and bar-hoppers feeding on show-stopper fresh food and laughing.  The kitchen is killing it.  The bar draws you in.  The room is jaw drop beautiful.  The knowledgeable staff is pouring the perfect wine or selected spirit.  All the pieces are in place.  2010 is going to be a good year.

ten01

Pork; The Love Affair Continues.

Tuesday, December 15th, 2009

porkdish

Pork rules. The other white meat has been one of my favorites since I was a kid, and not just because of bacon, the king of smoked cured meats.  I love loin, chop and cheek alike.  Trotters, jowl and snout as well top my list of tasty treats.  Our latest pork dish at ten01 has solidified pig as prince of palatable protein, as champion of choice cuts for carnivores.  Here we have our friend the pig plated in two preparations; luscious loin and beautiful belly, both handled with care to cater to your tongue’s taste for pig.  The loin is brined and then painstakingly wrapped in bacon, lightly poached, then portioned and seared to serve.  The belly is cured, seared, cooked sous vide, then rendered before it is portioned and glazed at pick up.  The rendering/basting portion of this preparation is food porn at it’s finest.  The smell of thyme and garlic grabs me, guides me over.  The clacking sound of spoon on metal mingling with the sizzling sounds of succulent fat call to me, soon I’m standing near with glazed eyes and smacking lips.  As if all this weren’t enough, these two mouthwatering meats are masterfully mounded onto waiting warmed plates with caramelized apples, turnips and red wine braised cabbage and then drizzled with honey vanilla gastrique. A dish like this takes a lot of careful preparation and practiced technique.  Below the video are some recipes which will hopefully inspire the artisan chef in you.  The cure recipe is used to flavor and tenderize the pork belly before it is rendered and then cooked at a low temperature.  It would also work to cure duck legs before doing a confit. The brine recipe is used to for a similar purpose with the pork loin.  Two techniques as building blocks in a truly outstanding dish.

YouTube Preview Image

Pork Belly Cure. by Sous Chef Eric Suniga

6 each star anise

4 each cinnamon stick

8 tsp black pepper

4 tsp coriander

2 tsp fennel

1 tsp clove

1 cup sea salt

4 tsp ginger

2 tsp garlic

1.  Butcher the protein you are going to cure.

2.  Place all the above ingredients into a food processor and process to a fine powder.

3.  Place the meat into a container and pack in the cure.  The meat should be totally covered with the cure.  Cover and refrigerate for twelve hours.

4.  Remove the meat from the cure and rinse it off with cold water.  Remove all cure.  Pat the meat dry. Proceed with cooking.  In the case of our pork belly, this means rendering then vacuum bagging with duck fat and aromatics.  The bellies are cooked in an immersion circulator for twelve hours at 82 degrees Celsius.

Brine for Pork Loin by Chef Micheal Hanaghan

3 Liters water

1/2 cup of kosher salt

3 grams clove

3 grams star anise

1 bunch rosemary

3 ea cinnamon stick

1/2 cup honey

1 knob of peeled fresh ginger

1.  Place all ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil.

2.  Thoroughly chill the brine before using it.  This is a good time to butcher your pork loins.

3.  Add the meat to the brine and cover and refrigerate for four hours.  This is enough brine to completely submerge four pork loins.

4.  After four hours, remove the loins from the brine.  Discard the liquid, do not reuse.

5.  Pat the loins dry and lightly season with salt and pepper before bacon wrapping, poaching, and searing.

LOIN